Talk:Cambusbarron Quarry

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Samuel removed information about bolts in the quarry. Have these been removed? Also, were the trad routes "Daniel can walk" and "Where is my mind?" removed because they have been climbed before?

Mark Somerville 15:24, 9 May 2006 (BST)

The bolts were removed on Sexed Up for obvious reasons, the studs and holes are now cleaned up.The two routes you mentioned are actually Bo's Arete and Bo's Arete Direct. I took the bolts off Tarzan cos they were needless after cleaning the route which turned out to be quite good climbing. Pig Route should have went in the guide as Rats Up A Drainpipe, FA myself and Lenny. Ther was no way that was climbed a month before I done it, I took off a lot of loose rock in the chimney in particular, revealing the only pro. The route was totally unsafe till i cleaned it. We were in the quarry every week and it had never been climbed. Your comments on Adulterer's Repentance are interesting- Lenny proposed an upgrade to E5 after proof-reading the new guide. Also noted the manufacture of foot-smears on the E3(for one) to your right as you enter the quarry. I'm a qualified stonemason, all the wire-brushing in the world won't disguise it! Hope this helps, stick more on later!

Thanks for clearing it up - we're getting towards much better, clearer information for the place now. My only experience with Adulterer's Repentance was top-roping Autogiro (bah, broke my ankle the day before I was going to do it :( - boo!) and E4 or E5 sounds more reasonable to me - it did look well necky.

Mark Somerville 14:09, 6 June 2006 (BST)

Hi Mark- sorry, had you mixed up with Mark Robson! Been getting back into Cambu, shame to see so many quality routes being neglected so going to try my best to sort out as much as possible. Top-roped Autogiro last year before dislocating my shoulder and the following surgery, think it could be that kind of route! Noticed the spike on Adulterer's is developing a crack down it's back, with that in mind and the one 1 nut between you and the deck for a 6c dyno I reckon it's probably e7. Lenny led Adulterers and says def e5. Anyway, if I can find partners to get in there then I'm going to do a few this summer and see if I can promote some traffic.

What does everyone think of the grade of Spanking the Monkey. I did it very quick for a font7b, infact its the only 7b or Brit 6C i've ever done. I'm not dissing the problems, its probably my favourite boulder problem in Scotland, just wondering what everyone else thought of the grade. -dom