Scoor Slab

From SCWiki

Big slab with good routes. Crimpy on slatey holds. Protection is behind large thin flakes so it can feel a tad necky.

Rock type: Mica-schist

Directions & Approach

From Bunessan travel up road towards Glen More and take 1st tun on right just after village. Drive 3 miles down dirt track untill you reach parking. Crag is past sandy beach way on the left.

The Climbing

The Reality Dysfunction E6 6a 15m**
Niall McNair. May 2004
E6 6a. On Beach Wall in Scoor area. Takes the arete to the left of "Wave Watcher". Start on the arete and the drainpipe feature before moving onto the arete proper at half height with the crux right at the top. Low in the grade but a fall from the top floor would probably smash your legs to pieces...

Splitting hairs E3 6a 20m*
Michael Tweedley, Tom Charles-Edwards. June 2002
Just to the right before crag gets smaller there are three crack lines the central one being the thinnest. Climb crack on holds that get smaller as you gain height. Then exit either left or right at obvious good holds. Crux is soft 6a. Route is good and the gear, although ran out at the top is good.

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