Limekilns
From SCWiki
Limekilns is great place to climb, situated just north of the Fife villages of Limekilns and Charlestown.
One of the things that makes these crags special is that the rock and climbing are of a different nature from what is typically found in the area. The climbing is on two limestone blocks, the Sentinel & the Gellet.
Grade spread; VS to E5. (and now E7, Dave Macleod's Slow Handclap)
Contents |
Directions & Approach
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Access
It has a history of access issues which have not been totally alleviated by the Access Code, so tread carefully.
The Sentinel
Decent is by abseil.
The South Face
Pickwick 12m VS 4b
Hunter and the Hunted 12m E1 5b
Humbug 12m VS 4c*
1981
Stag Dubh E1 5a** 12m
Johnny Dyble, Jim Shanks. March 2005
E1 5a Climb between the cracklines of Humbug and Kiln Dance with Me without recourse to either route for holds or gear. Stay true to the rules (and route!) for maximum effect as the cracklines draw closer together nearing the top. Unprotected and serious with the crux near the top, but a really good eliminate.
Kilndance with me 12m E1 5a
Empires and Dance 10m HVS 5a
Dingley Dell 10m Severe
1983
The East Face
The Struggler 12m E3 6a**
1984
Cruel Summer 12m E2 5c***
1983
Colours Fly 12m E1 5c*
1983
On the Blocks 12m E3 6a*
1986
Marley's Ghost 12m E2 5c*
1983
The North Face
Velvet Glove 15m E4 6a***
1984
The left hand crack
Slow Handclap E7 6c* 12m
Dave MacLeod - Jan 2004
This serious route takes the smooth, blank looking wall right of Iron Fist on the Sentinal Block. Move easily up to a good hold (poor skyhook runner if you are feeling optimistic). Climb the wall above direct on small sidepulls and edges with technical and sketchy moves to eventually gain good finishing holds near the top. FA headpoint style 04/01/2005. E7 6c, F7cish climbing.
The Iron Fist 15m E4 6a***
1984
The right hand crack.
The West Face
Methods of Dance 12m E3 6a**
1983
New Gold Dream 12m E1 5b*
The Gellet
The West Face
DTs Shaker Finish HVS 5a* 10m
J. Dyble,D. Monteith and I. McCabe. April 2005
Climb DTs until the point where it moves toward right-hand crack. Continue straight up left-hand crack on wobbly jams. Gives an obvious finish to the bottom 2/3rds of the original route.
The South Face
Muffintop Blues E3 5c
Craig Adam, Phil Ebert (Both led) - 15/06/06
Climbs the arete right of Grasp the Nettle. Start as for Edge of Fear - where this route moves round the arete continue straight up to a rest and gear below a small overlap. Step left and tackle the bulge, making fingery moves right to the obvious hole. Continue straight up the arete boldly but more easily and over a final bulge to finish.
The East Face
The North Face
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