Dumbuck
From SCWiki
From a guide originally by Dave Redpath.
Dumbuck is the boulderers answer to sport climbing. The routes although short pack a fair punch, which isn't so good when you've still got to clip the rope in. The harder routes require a technique of their own, the amount of toehooks required to progress upwards on slopers sometimes means there are twice as many moves as metres.
Directions and Approach
By public transport: There are regular trains every 30 minutes or so from Glasgow to Dumbarton. The crag is about a 30 minute walk from the train station.
By car: Dumbuck is the obvious counter volcanic plug to Dumbarton Rock. The work of the quarry company has left the crag looking detached from the rest of the hillside. Follow the A82 from Glasgow to Dumbarton. Take the turn off for Dumbarton and follow the road around to the Dumbuck Hotel, the crag can be seen above the road from here. Alternatively stay on the A82 after the turn off until a right turn can be made into a housing scheme. Follow the road to the top of the hill and park on the bend. Head across a couple of fields then up to the crag. Note the quarry company have turned a blind eye to climbing here, so discretion is advised.
The routes
Routes described from left to right.
1. Filth Infatuated 10m 5+
Rosemary Conaly - 1998
2. Project 10m
Another optimistic line.
3. Happiness in Slavery 10m 8b+ **
Dave MacLeod - 2004
The steepness left of Voodoo Magic is climbed directly to a good hold. Getting there involves sustained undercutting.
4. Voodoo Magic 10m 8a+ **
Andy Gallagher (Reclimbed by Dave Macleod at 8b - 1999)
Make hard moves to a glued hold, which may allow you to clip, then head up and right (crux) to a handrail, before moving back left to finish up left of a groove.
A chipped hold now makes it possible to miss out three of the crux holds to move directly at the flat hold.
5. Awaken 10m 7c+ **
Andy Gallagher - 1990s
Move steeply up to a jug at half height, make a hard move off a sloping pinch to gain better holds.
6. Flesh for Fantasy 10m 7c+ ***
Cammy Fair - 1994
Sharp moves lead to the bulge, move through the bulge to a good jug on the right before using the ramp to gain the top.
7. If Six was Nine 10m 7c **
Andy Gallagher - 1990s
Powerful moves lead to a big undercut, use this to gain the base of the hanging slab, which provides the crux.
8. Parallel 10m 7c
Andy Gallagher - 1994
Bit of a counter line, good climbing, again the crux is attaining a standing position on the slab.
9. House of Pain 10m 7c+ **
Andy Gallagher - 1998
The line through the big scoop in the center of the crag. Heel hooks take you up to the crack, now jump to gain a jug, then through the roof to a rapid finish. Became a few moves longer when the chain was moved to the lip.
10. Darty Sanchez 12m 7c+ *
Michael Rudden - 2001
This goes up the start of Gentle Mass Touching, then breaks left (above the second bolt) into the tricky overhanging corner to arrive at the large jug on House of Pain, to finish up this route.
11. Gentle Mass Touching 10m 7c+ *
Andy Gallagher - 1990s
Make a hard move to gain the undercut groove, pull through this and attack the headwall.
12. Project (Open) 10m
Well hard!
13. Devastation Generation 10m 8c ***
Dave MacLeod - 27/10/04
A hard slap leads up to undercuts in the scoop. Getting the slot above using the small pocket is the crux and Font 7c in itself.
14. Project (Open) 8m
Start up So Be It and make a large span left off a crimp to a flat hold. With a span maybe F8b; without, dont bother trying...
15. So Be It 10m 8a+ **
Dave MacLeod - 2000
Swing up to a jug, step right then power upwards on edges. Harder than it looks!
16. Second Sights 10m 7c+
Dave Redpath - 1999
Pitifully short, but very bouldery.
17. Twister 10m 7a+
Darren Stevenson - 1997
Power gets you over the lip, then you should be OK.
18. Tragically Hip 10m 7a **
Jon Jones - 1997
Same again? The warm-up!
19. Breathe the Pressure 10m 6b+
Darren Stevenson - 1998
A bit green, but worth the lead in summer.
Some traditional lines have also been done on the hillside to the right of the crag, there should be enough here to keep you going.
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