Cambusbarron Quarry

From SCWiki

A fine central belt quarry with easy access to a selection of harder traditional climbs. There is also Cambusbarron West Quarry just next door.

Directions

Approach time: 2 minutes. (OS Landranger Sheet 57 Grid Ref 772 922)

For further details refer to the excellent SMC Lowland Outcrops guide.

Amenities

A couple of newsagents on the main street. There's a pub called The Forrester in the village for a post climb pint.

Routes

Described from left to right.

Several shorter lower quality routes are found on the left side of the quarry from severe to E2.

Power of Endurance E5 6a *
Nasty crux at mid height involving a long reach / jump to a good hold.

Quantum Grunt 25m E3 6a **

Visions of Monaco 25m E3 6a

Purr-Blind Doomster E5 6a **
The initial steep crack to the obvious slot is well protected. From the slot step right to the arete and climb boldly to the jutting spike. Finish more easily.

Quasi Pulls Through 25m E4 6a

Pig Route 25m E3 5c
Climb the off-width chimney which used to be Oink Oink.

Both Ends Burning 25m E5 6b ***

Fuel for Thought 25m E3 5c

The Crowd 25m E6 6a/b

Running on Methane 25m E4 6a

Murrays Groove 25m E2 5c

Autogiro E6 6C **
Gordon Lennox
Climb the arete of Adulterers Repentance to the wobbly spike. From here step up and left to climb the arete above via some excellent moves.

Adulterer's Repentance 25m E3 5c
Haven't climbed it, but it looks mental for E3! Mark Somerville

Economy Drive 25m E3 6a **

Contortionosm 20m E6 6c

Anabolic Steriods E5/6 6b *
Long and sustained. Dropped a few grades after the FA when given further cleaning.

Jerkin' the Gherkin 6c+
Simon Munro - March 2004
Up the left arete of the overhanging face of the Spanking the Monkey boulder. Either start from the left, or straight up with a jump.

Withdrawl Wall 5m VS
Ian McCabe - June 2003
12 meters left of "Bo's Arete" is a clean-cut arete. Climb the right wall on positive but spaced holds to gain an easier finish.

Tarzan 15m E3 *
Michael Tweedley, Lee Byrnes
Climbs pillar, left of Spanking the Monkey. Then traverses across seem rightwards to gain an easier left-trending crack.

The Bustup 30m VS 4c

The next routes climb the flat wall at the back of the quarry to the right of a large corner with a capped roof.

There used to be a sport route (Sexed Up, F7C) on an arete at the back of the quarry, but the bolts were removed by locals as the route is protectable. The current view is that bolts should be kept out of this quarry. The line remains to be completed traditionally.

Nandralone 25m E8 6c ***
Gordon Lennox 2002?
This route takes the thin crackline 10m to the right of the corner with the imposing loose roof. Gain good holds below main crackline either directly or from the left. Climb the main crack on small finger locks with dwindling footholds (crux). Moving left better holds are eventually gained at 15m. Easier climbing leads to the top. Well protected F8a/+ climbing.

Anger Management 20m E5 6b **

Gun Fury 25m E2 5c

Moving Shadow 20m E5 ***
Michael Tweedley, Lee Byrnes - May 2001
To the left of Thug of War. Climb groove to gain a layback crack which leads to a ledge then head left and climb wee headwall. Quite technical.

Trail Blazer 25m E2 5c **

Pathfinder 25m E1 5b

Thug of War 10m E4 6b
Appropriate name for this short crack.

Phantom Power 20m E1 5b

Dr Dre's Orgazmatron 20m E3 5c

In Hiding 10m E3 5c

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