Boltsheugh

From SCWiki

Located on Whiteland Head, just south of Newtonhill on the south Aberdeen coast. The main area consists of very short, very steep sport climbs. To the north and south of this are larger, less steep crags with an assortment of trad lines and the odd sport route.

[edit] Directions & Approach

From the A90 south of Aberdeen, take the only turning into Newtonhill and follow the road through the village to a small car part overlooking the harbour. Take the track leading south along the clifftop for a coupe of hundred metres until, just after crossing a small boggy patch, you reach the main crag.

[edit] Climbing

Drop Zone 15m HVS 4c
Pete Stephenson, Stuart Stronach. March 2001
Climb the poorly protected arete left of Five by Five to the mid height ledge, and then finish up that route.

Nail in the Coffin 10m E3 5a
John Wilson, Stuart Stronach. Jan 2001
On the southernmost crag at Boltsheugh (identified by a bolt stud showing an abandoned project) are two parallel cracks. Climb the left hand crack with a thin move through the mid-height bulge.

Fear Itself 10m E1 5a
Dave Kirk, Stuart Stronach. Jan 2001
The right hand of the two parallel cracks.

Lie To Me E1 6 0 00-03-2001 Pete Stephenson, Stuart Stronach 1. 5C - Left of "Nail in the Coffin" is an obvious short overhanging crack. Climb it. Not too sure of the grade as I'm 6'3" and I was at absolute full stretch on the crux!

Five by Five E2 15 1 00-08-2001 Adrian Scott, Stuart Stronach 1. 5C - On the big walls south of and below the sports climbs is a large cave. Left of the cave, a crack splits a roof and overhanging wall above. Climb the crack (dynamic for the short) and finish more easily up the final corner.

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