Auchinstarry Quarry

From SCWiki

Auchinstarry Quarry is a central belt Dolerite quarry near Croy, that has been landscaped to provide a pleasant enough venue. Has the benefit of being close to a main line train-station, making it easy to reach for those in Glasgow or Edinburgh without a car. For those with a car, parking is very close - one of those belay from the car venues.

Directions & Approach

This crag is easily accessible by public transport. Get the Edinburgh/Glasgow Queen Street train and alight at Croy. From here it is about 15min walk.

Car Park Area:

The area you can belay from your car in. Descent is by following the path round to the left (as you face crag).

1.First Footer E1 5c **

2.Access Route Diff ***

3.Scream S 4b

4.Anarchist VDiff

5.Tar Severe

6.Knock Back E1 5b **

7.Slinky Lizard HS 4b *
Route can be a little sandy at times

8.Cats Whiskers E2 5b

9.Death Is The Hunter E4 6b ***

10.Nijinski E5 6a ***

Promontory

Area just to the right of the carpark area

1. Blade Runner E4 6a **
2. Promontory Direct HVs 5a ***
3. Spirogyra VS 5a

Main Amphitheatre:

1. Cracked Arete VS 4c **
2. Caftan HVS 4c
3. Bazaar HVS 4c
4. Mastaglia VS 4c *
5. Higher Beginning VDiff
6. Stir Crazy HVS 5a
7. Lion Cub VS 4b *
8. Lion HVS 5b **

Mascarade Buttress

1.Roll Up VS 4c

2.Soft Machine E2 5c

3.Maypole HVS 4c

4.High Dive E3 5c *

5.Surface Tension E5 6b ***

6.Mascarade E1 5c

7.Whiplash E1 5b

8.Red Lead VS 5a ***
There is a video of someone soloing this climb here: [1].

9.White Slab HS 4b
10.Demons and Dead Lizards HVS 5a

Trundle Slab

1. Replicant E3 5c
2. Trundle VS 4c ***
3. Walk On The Wild Side HVS 5a ***
4. Midas Touch E1 5b ***
5. The Gold Bug E3 5c
6. Gold Rush E1 5b ***
7. After The Gold Rush E2 5a
8. After The Grave Dig E1 5a **

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